Choosing equipment.

While the right gear can be helpful, it is important to remember that tools do not train your dog – you do. You can use a hammer to build a house, but the hammer can’t do it for you. Below are brief descriptions of some typical dog training tools.

Crates (Kennels): Dog crates provide a safe, enclosed space to confine your dog. They are essential for housetraining and travel. When introduced correctly, a crate provides your dog with a safe and comfortable place to retreat to, where they can rest undisturbed. There are many sizes and styles available. A wire crate is typically the least expensive and satisfies most needs. I recommend an airline crate for travel (even in cars) or to prevent injuries to dogs that try to escape from wire crates.

Flat Collars: Plain buckle collars, made of nylon or leather, are perfect for attaching ID tags or embroidering with your dog’s name and phone number. While they can provide a suitable attachment point for a leash, they are not ideal for training purposes.

Front-attach Harnesses: These harnesses, often marketed as “no-pull” harnesses, are very popular. While some dogs may respond well to them, they generally do not provide an effective line of communication and may cause the leash to get tangled in your dog’s legs. Ultimately, there is no such thing as a no-pull harness; there are just no-pull dogs. If you train your dog properly, you will not need a complicated series of straps and buckles to get them to walk politely on a leash.

Head Halters: Often referred to by the brand names Halti or Gentle Leader, head “collars” go around your dog’s head and face like a bit-less bridle for a horse. They are often used to help teach dogs to walk politely on a leash. While they work well for some dogs, they may increase the risk of neck injuries and should be used with caution. Most dogs, particularly those that are rambunctious or reactive, are better off with a training collar.

Leashes: Leashes not only tether your dog to you, but they also provide a line of communication. I recommend using a 6-foot flat leash for training. Most are made from nylon or leather, but BioThane offers a popular alternative. Avoid rope-style leashes and leashes with thick handles or more than two loops (one at the end and a “traffic handle” set closer to the clasp). I also suggest getting a 15-foot leash to use when teaching a 'come when called' command. Retractable leashes have some practical applications in training and are acceptable for well-trained dogs, but they are not a good option for daily walks.

Martingale Collars: A training collar should have some action, meaning you can apply and release pressure. I recommend using a Martingale limited-slip collar. Unlike traditional slip collars, which can tighten indefinitely, Martingale collars will not tighten beyond a set limit. This makes them great for training because your dog cannot escape from it, but the risk of injury is minimal. Most are made of nylon; some use a section of metal chain to provide faster action.

Muzzles: A muzzle prevents your dog from engaging in dangerous behaviors with their mouth. They are unfairly stigmatized, causing many people to hesitate to use them out of fear that their dogs will be perceived as aggressive. A muzzle doesn’t mean the owner has a bad dog; it means the dog has a good owner. I recommend muzzle-conditioning your dog so they will be comfortable wearing one if necessary. Even gentle dogs can present a bite risk when scared or injured. Muzzles are available in several styles and materials. Choose one that effectively prevents biting; many cloth and mesh versions are unreliable.

Prong Collars (Pinch Collars): Prong collars are limited-slip collars made with interwoven metal links that evenly distribute leash pressure at multiple points around your dog’s neck. They can amplify communication and provide more control over your dog. Prong collars have an undeserved bad reputation because they look like torture devices. Prong collars are not appropriate for every dog, but they are safe and effective when used correctly. The only acceptable brand is Herm Sprenger.

Puzzles: These are toys that you fill with food. They require some effort from your dog, so they provide a safe, long-lasting reward. Puzzles are great for mental stimulation and help build positive associations with new things and situations.

Rear-attach Harnesses: These traditional harnesses are great for when you want to allow your dog to pull. I recommend using a harness when you don't have the time or patience to adhere to a loose-leash training protocol, but want to take your dog for a walk. This will avoid undoing any progress you have made with a training collar. The physical sensations of each are distinct, so it will not confuse your dog (they learn that they are allowed to pull a little on a harness but not on a collar). Harnesses are also appropriate for most puppies and some small-breed dogs.

Remote Collars: Often provocatively referred to as shock collars, remote collars use a hand-held transmitter to send a signal to a receiver attached to your dog’s collar. The receiver delivers an electrical impulse that your dog can feel. High-quality remote collars do not administer a “shock.” More accurately, they are comparable to the TENS units used by chiropractors and physical therapists. They have variable settings that provide a range of stimulation levels, from mild tingling to intense discomfort.

Remote collars are safe and effective when introduced properly and used correctly. However, when misused, they can cause psychological distress and may make behavior problems worse. Proper use of a remote collar requires the guidance of a professional to ensure a careful introduction using a low-stress conditioning protocol. The only acceptable brands are Dogtra and E-collar Technologies. Inferior models are unreliable and lack the necessary range and consistency of intensity levels.

Safety Clips: These short cords have clasps on either end that connect the leash to your dog’s flat collar, providing a backup to your training collar. If your training collar fails, the safety clip ensures you are still tethered to your dog. Using a safety clip with any collar or harness is a good idea, but they are mandatory when using prong collars or head halters.

Slip Collars: These collars work like slip leads but attach to a separate leash. While they pose the same risks as slip leads, they can be useful as backups, especially for prong collars and head halters.

Slip Leads: These simple leashes have a loop at one end that acts as a collar. They are effective for preventing escape because they tighten when pulled. Unlike limited-slip collars, slip leashes will tighten indefinitely, which poses a risk of injury to your dog. Slip leads are effective but require exceptional leash-handling skills to use safely.

Tab Leashes (Traffic Leads): Twelve-inch leashes allow you to quickly control or correct your dog without the need for them to drag a leash behind them.

X-pens: These free-standing gates can be configured in various ways to confine your dog. They provide more room than crates for your dog to move around, making them useful for extended periods of confinement. They can safely separate your dog from kids, guests, and other dogs without completely isolating them.